A Jeweller’s Guide to Citrine: Identification Tips and Jewellery Making Advice
Welcome to the sunny side of the gemstone world!
Citrine, with its golden glow and cheerful energy, has been cherished for centuries, even before modern gemology gave it a name. Today, it remains one of the most popular yellow gemstones, thanks to its affordability, durability, and range of design possibilities.
From soft lemon hues to rich amber tones, citrine offers jewellers a versatile and vibrant choice. Let’s explore the key characteristics, care advice, and setting tips that every jeweller should know when working with this radiant gem.
Basic Identification Information
Name & Synonyms:
Citrine. Sometimes called golden quartz
Species:
Quartz
Colour Range:
Pale yellow to deep orange-brown.
The most prized shades are saturated, golden-orange hues with a red tone sometimes marketed as “Madeira” citrine.
Refractive Index:
1.544 – 1.553
Birefringence:
0.009
Optical Sign:
Uniaxial positive
Pleochroism:
Very weak to none
if present shows different shades of yellow or orange.
Specific Gravity:
2.650 to 2.655
Fluorescence:
None
Lustre:
Vitreous
Clarity:
Type I (usually eye-clean)
Citrine is typically free from visible inclusions. In lower grades, you may encounter needle-like or liquid inclusions, but these are uncommon in commercial material.
Gems Often Mistaken for Citrine:
Topaz, Sapphire, Beryl (heliodor)
Mohs Hardness:
7
Wearability:
Good. Durable enough for daily wear in most types of jewellery.
Birthstone:
November (shared with topaz)
Common Treatments
Most citrine on the market has been heat treated, either by heating pale amethyst or smoky quartz to achieve yellow to orange tones. This practice is widespread and considered standard. Natural citrine does exist, but it's rarer and often paler in colour.
Heat treatment is stable and permanent, but as always, it’s best practice to disclose it to clients.
Durability Considerations
Citrine’s hardness of 7 makes it suitable for a wide range of jewellery styles, including rings and bracelets. However, as with all quartz, it can still show surface wear over time, especially if worn daily and exposed to grit or harder materials.
It has no cleavage and resists breakage well, but a heavy blow can still chip or fracture it.
Care should be taken during polishing or repair work, as quartz can be sensitive to prolonged exposure to high heat or chemicals.
Jeweller’s Setting Tips
Citrine’s durability and availability in a wide range of sizes and shapes make it a delight to set. It works well in most settings, and is hardy enough for everyday rings.
Because it’s relatively affordable, larger citrines are often used as statement centre stones. These should be well protected in rings or bracelets, especially if worn daily. If possible position the stone so its table sits level with or slightly below the setting edge as this helps protect the facet junctions from chips.
If you're soldering close to an already set stone, be cautious. If possible, complete high-heat work before setting, and avoid thermal shock, as high heat can effect the gemstones colouring.
Care Instructions
Cleaning:
Citrine can be safely cleaned using warm water, mild soap, and a soft toothbrush. Ultrasonic cleaners are generally safe for unfilled stones, but avoid steam cleaning, especially if you're unsure about treatment history.
Storage:
Store away from harder stones like sapphire or spinel to avoid scratches. Use soft pouches or dedicated compartments.
Daily Wear:
With reasonable care, citrine jewellery can be worn daily. That said, even tough stones appreciate a gentle clean and the occasional rest day.
Aesthetic & Design Insights
Citrine is a beautifully sunny and mood-lifting gemstone that suits a wide range of design aesthetics. It brings warmth and vibrancy to both minimalist and maximalist styles.
Metal Pairings:
Citrine glows warmly in yellow gold, where the metal complements and intensifies the gem’s golden tones. Rose gold offers a soft, vintage-inspired look, while white metals provide a striking contrast that highlights the stone’s brightness.
Companion Stones:
Looks fabulous with garnet, peridot, amethyst, and other quartz family members. Diamond and white sapphire also work beautifully as accents, enhancing sparkle without competing for attention.
Design Styles:
Perfect for bohemian, vintage, and autumnal designs. Its golden hues also work well in celestial and sun-themed pieces, especially when paired with warm metals and curved, organic forms.
Want to dive deeper into the colour psychology of yellow and orange gemstones? Click the colours to learn more.
Market & Ethical Notes
Brazil is the leading source of citrine today, particularly from the states of Minas Gerais and Rio Grande do Sul. Most citrine on the market is heat-treated amethyst or smoky quartz from these regions.
Natural, untreated citrine is uncommon and tends to be lighter and less saturated. Some small-scale deposits of natural citrine are found in Bolivia, Madagascar, and Russia, but supply is limited.
Citrine is generally considered an ethically safe stone when sourced from reputable dealers. However, it’s always worth asking suppliers about treatment disclosure and mine-to-market traceability, especially if you're aiming for sustainable sourcing.
Symbolic & Spiritual Meanings
Long associated with the sun, citrine has been treasured across cultures as a stone of joy, abundance, and vitality. In modern crystal healing, it's believed to encourage positivity, boost confidence, and attract success.
It’s linked to the solar plexus chakra and is often recommended for those seeking motivation, clarity, or a renewed sense of purpose. Some also call it the “merchant’s stone,” said to support prosperity and financial success in business.
Etymology
The name “citrine” comes from the French word citron, meaning “lemon,” a nod to its sunny yellow colour. The term began to appear in gemological texts in the mid-18th century, though the stone itself had been used much earlier under less specific names like “yellow quartz.”