A Jeweller’s Guide to Spinel: Identification Tips and Jewellery Making Advice
Let’s take a closer look at spinel, a gem that’s finally getting the recognition it deserves.
Long overshadowed by ruby, spinel has an impressive history and a bright future in modern jewellery. With its beautiful range of colours, excellent durability, and brilliant sparkle, spinel is both versatile and rewarding to work with.
Whether you’re a gemstone enthusiast or a jewellery maker, spinel deserves a place in your collection. Here’s what you need to know.
Basic Identification Information
(Unsure what some of the headings mean? Click Here)
Name & Synonyms:
Spinel
Species:
Spinel
Colour Range:
Red, pink, orange, purple, violet, blue, grey, black, and in some rare cases yellow and greenish.
Some rare spinels show colour change.
Refractive Index:
1.710 – 1.735
Birefringence:
None (singly refractive)
Optical Sign:
None (singly refractive)
Pleochroism:
None
Specific Gravity:
3.57 – 3.70
Fluorescence:
Usually more noticeable with long wave UV lighting and, depending on the gems colour, can have an intensity from inert to strong.
Red, Orange and Pink stones glow either red or orange.
Purple stones glow red.
Pale Blue and Violet stones glow green.
Near Colorless and Light Green stones glow red or reddish orange, although these stones can be inert to any UV light.
All other spinel colours are usually inert.
Lustre:
Vitreous (glass like)
Clarity:
Type 2
While eye clean gems are possible, many spinels will have inclusions.
Gems Often Mistaken for Spinel:
Ruby, Garnet, Sapphire, Tourmaline
Mohs Hardness:
8
Wearability:
Excellent.
Birthstone:
August (added as a modern alternative to peridot)
Common Treatments
Most spinels on the market are untreated.
This is one of the stone’s strongest selling points. It rarely requires enhancement to show off its beauty.
Synthetic spinels are available within the jewellery making industry. They usually appear in low-cost birthstone jewellery.
Durability Considerations
Spinel is an excellent choice for everyday jewellery due to its high hardness and lack of cleavage.
It’s less brittle than many other gems, making it more forgiving during setting and wear. That said, surface-reaching inclusions or older cuts may still pose risks during high-impact wear.
It’s safe for a range of jewellery types, including daily wear rings such as engagement rings.
The main consideration is to avoid heavy-handed polishing or ultrasonic cleaning if the stone has visible inclusions or fractures.
Jeweller’s Setting Tips
Because spinel is so durable, it gives jewellers more flexibility when it comes to setting styles. Prong, bezel, or even tension settings can all be used, depending on the design and the stone’s cut.
Spinel can be sensitive to heat when inclusions are present, so avoid direct soldering near the stone. For designs requiring resizing or repair after setting, use a heat sink or remove the gem first.
When choosing a setting style, consider the colour of the spinel. Deep reds and blues often look best in open-backed settings where light can enhance their natural brilliance.
Care Instructions
Cleaning:
Warm, soapy water and a soft brush are ideal. Spinel can usually withstand ultrasonic cleaning if it’s free from surface-reaching inclusions, but steam cleaning should be avoided to prevent thermal shock.
Storage:
Store spinel separate to other gems to avoid scratches from harder stones like sapphire or diamond. A padded jewellery roll or a compartmentalised box works well.
Daily Wear:
Thanks to its high hardness and lack of cleavage, spinel is a top choice for daily wear. It’s a reliable option for rings worn on active hands, with minimal fuss needed for upkeep.
Aesthetic & Design Insights
Spinel’s crisp clarity and vibrant colours make it highly desirable for both modern and vintage-inspired pieces. Red and pink spinels are often used as alternatives to ruby, while blue and lavender varieties can substitute for sapphire or tanzanite.
Metal Pairings:
White gold or platinum enhances cool-toned spinels, such as lavender, blue, or grey, by highlighting their crisp brilliance and refined edge.
Yellow and rose gold work beautifully with pink, red, and orange spinels, enriching their warm hues and giving the design a timeless, romantic feel.
Companion Stones:
Spinel pairs well with white or champagne diamonds, providing contrast and sparkle without overpowering the gem’s natural colour.
Moonstone, zircon, or sapphires can be used alongside spinel for complementary tones and multi-stone designs that still feel balanced.
Design Styles:
Spinel adapts well to both minimalist and maximalist jewellery aesthetics.
Its even colour and strong brilliance make it an excellent centrepiece for solitaires, while its history lends itself well to antique-inspired designs with milgrain, engraving, or filigree.
Market & Ethical Notes
Spinel is mined in locations including Sri Lanka, Myanmar (Burma), Vietnam, Tanzania, and Tajikistan. Myanmar’s Mogok region is especially famous for producing rich, ruby-like spinels.
Ethical sourcing is crucial, as with all gemstones. Although spinel mining is generally small-scale, buyers should still work with suppliers who support traceability and fair labour practices.
Because spinel is relatively underappreciated outside gem circles, it offers good value for jewellers, especially when compared to sapphire or ruby, without compromising on beauty or durability.
Symbolic & Spiritual Meanings
Spinel is often associated with revitalisation and inner strength. It’s said to help re-energise the body and mind, promoting clarity and endurance during challenging times.
Red spinel, in particular, has been linked to passion, power, and vitality, while violet or lavender spinel is thought to promote peace and spiritual insight.
Spinel is also known as a stone of protection and is believed to help ward off negative energy and ease stress, making it a popular choice in energy work and crystal healing practices.
Etymology
The name "spinel" likely comes from the Latin word spina, meaning "thorn," possibly referring to the sharp crystal formations found in nature.
Notable Varieties & Trade Names
While spinel doesn’t have as many trade names as some other multi coloured gemstones, here are a few terms you might come across:
Cobalt spinel – Bright, electric blue stones coloured by cobalt; very rare and valuable.
Flame spinel – A historical name often used for vivid red stones, most commonly seen in relation to vintage jewellery.
Mahenge spinel – Neon pink to red spinels from Tanzania’s Mahenge region, known for their exceptional brightness.
Lavender spinel – Soft violet stones with calming overtones, often pastel in colour.